Milady Standard Chapter 21

Porosity refers to the ability of hair to absorb liquids. It is a measure of how easily hair can absorb and retain moisture, oils, and other substances. Hair with high porosity tends to absorb liquids quickly and may become dry or damaged easily, while hair with low porosity has difficulty absorbing liquids and may appear resistant to moisture. Understanding the porosity of hair is important for proper hair care and choosing appropriate products that can effectively moisturize and nourish the hair.

Blond, Ginger, Red.

Coarse-textured hair has a larger diameter compared to fine or medium textured hair. This means that the hair strands are thicker, which can make it more difficult for haircolor to penetrate and process evenly. As a result, it may take longer for the haircolor to fully develop on coarse-textured hair compared to other hair types.

Melanin is the natural coloring pigment found in the cortex layer of the hair. It is responsible for determining the hair's color, ranging from black to brown, red, and blonde. Melanin is produced by specialized cells called melanocytes, which are located in the hair follicles. It is a complex polymer that absorbs and reflects light, giving hair its characteristic color. Melanin also provides protection against harmful UV radiation from the sun.

The haircolour consultation is the most critical part of a colour service because it allows the stylist to understand the client's desired outcome, assess the condition of the hair, and determine the best approach for achieving the desired colour result. During the consultation, the stylist can discuss any previous colour treatments, allergies, or sensitivities the client may have, ensuring that the chosen haircolour is safe and suitable for them. Additionally, the consultation allows the stylist to educate the client about the maintenance and aftercare required for their new haircolour, ensuring long-lasting results and client satisfaction.

The U.S. Federal Food, Drug and Cosmetic Act requires that a predisposition test be given 24 to 48 hours prior to application. This time frame allows for enough time to observe any potential adverse reactions or sensitivities to the product before it is applied. Giving the test too close to the application time may not allow enough time for any reactions to manifest, while giving the test too far in advance may not accurately reflect the individual's current sensitivity to the product.

When applying color using the bowl-and-brush method, the mixing bowl should be nonmetallic. This is because metallic bowls can react with the chemicals in the hair color, potentially causing a negative chemical reaction or altering the color result. Nonmetallic bowls, on the other hand, are safe to use as they do not react with the hair color and ensure the desired color outcome.

Hair texture refers to the overall look and feel of the hair, and it is determined by the diameter of individual hair strands. The thickness or thinness of the strands directly affects the texture of the hair. Hair with thicker strands tends to have a coarser texture, while hair with thinner strands tends to have a finer texture. Therefore, the correct answer is "strands" because it accurately explains how hair texture is determined.

Hydrogen peroxide is the most commonly used developer in hair color. It is a key component in hair color formulations as it helps to activate the color molecules and allows them to penetrate the hair shaft. Hydrogen peroxide also helps to lighten the natural hair color by breaking down the existing pigment. It is a stable and effective developer that provides consistent and reliable results in hair coloring processes.

If the scalp has any obvious signs of abrasions, it means that there are open wounds or cuts on the scalp. Applying hair color to a client with abrasions can cause irritation, pain, and potential infection. It is important to avoid applying hair color in such cases to ensure the client's safety and well-being.

In the weaving technique, a zigzag motion is used to pick up selected strands from a narrow section of hair. This motion helps create a more natural and blended look by ensuring that the strands are not picked up in a straight or uniform manner. By using a zigzag motion, the stylist can mimic the irregular pattern of natural hair growth, resulting in a more seamless and realistic weave.

The darkest hair color in the level system is identified as being level 1. This is because the level system for hair color ranges from 1 to 10, with 1 being the darkest and 10 being the lightest. Level 1 hair color is typically black or very dark brown, while level 10 is usually a very light blonde or platinum color.

Demipermanent colours, also known as no-lift deposit-only colours, are a type of hair colouring that do not contain any bleach or ammonia. They are designed to deposit color onto the hair without lightening or lifting the natural hair color. Unlike temporary colours, demipermanent colours last longer and provide more intense color results. They are formulated to add tone and depth to the hair, making them an ideal choice for those who want to enhance their natural hair color without making a drastic change.

When hair is tinted and a new hair color is applied over it, if the new color overlaps with the previously tinted hair, it can cause breakage and create a visible line of demarcation. This line of demarcation is a clear distinction between the two different hair colors, indicating where the new color starts and the previous color ends.

When clients have hair in questionable condition and request chemical services, it is important for them to sign a release statement. This is necessary because the chemical services may further damage their hair or cause adverse reactions. The release statement ensures that the client understands the risks involved and takes responsibility for any potential damage. It protects the salon or stylist from liability and ensures that the client has given informed consent for the requested services.

Toners are hair colouring products that are used primarily on prelightened hair to achieve pale and delicate colours. Unlike tints, which are used to change the overall hair colour, toners are specifically designed to neutralize unwanted tones or enhance certain shades in prelightened hair. They are typically used after the hair has been bleached or lightened to achieve a desired pale or delicate colour. Rinses, on the other hand, are temporary colouring products that add a subtle tint to the hair, while organic refers to products made from natural ingredients.

The term "Base Color" refers to the main or dominant tone of color in a given context. It is the primary color that is most noticeable or prominent. Therefore, the statement that "Base Color" refers to the predominant tone of color is true.

When the cuticle of the hair is lifted and the hair is overly porous and absorbs color quickly, it indicates that the hair porosity is high. High porosity means that the hair has gaps and holes in the cuticle, allowing moisture and chemicals to easily enter and exit the hair shaft. This can result in hair that is prone to frizz, tangles easily, and has difficulty retaining moisture.

The correct answer is double-process application. In this process, the hair is first prelightened to remove its natural color and then toned to achieve the desired shade. This two-step application ensures that the hair is lightened enough to allow the toner to work effectively and create the desired color result. It is commonly used when wanting to achieve dramatic color changes or when going from dark to light shades.

The correct answer is "new growth" because it refers to the part of the hair shaft that has grown out from the scalp since the last time it was colored. The follicle is the root of the hair, the medulla is the innermost layer of the hair shaft, and reaction does not pertain to the context of the question.

Baliage is a technique where hair lightener is painted directly onto clean, styled hair in a free-form manner. This technique creates a natural, sun-kissed look by strategically placing lighter pieces throughout the hair. It differs from highlighting, which typically involves using foils or caps to separate sections of hair. Baliage allows for a more customized and blended result, as the hair colorist can choose where to apply the lightener based on the client's desired look.

Eumelanin is the correct answer because it is the pigment responsible for giving black and brown color to hair. It is produced by specialized cells called melanocytes and its quantity and distribution determine the darkness or lightness of hair color. Eumelanin is also found in the skin and eyes, and variations in its production can result in different hair, skin, and eye colors in individuals.

Complementary colors are positioned opposite each other on the color wheel. When these colors are combined, they create a high contrast and enhance each other's intensity. This creates a visually pleasing effect and is often used in design and art to create balance and harmony. Contrasting colors, on the other hand, may not necessarily be positioned opposite each other on the color wheel and may not create the same harmonious effect when combined. Permanent colors and tertiary colors are not directly related to the concept of colors being positioned opposite each other on the color wheel.

Lowlighting is the technique used to color strands of hair darker than the natural color. This involves applying a darker shade of hair dye to certain sections of the hair to create depth and dimension. It is commonly used to add richness and contrast to the hair, especially when it has been highlighted or lightened. Unlike highlighting, which involves lightening strands of hair, lowlighting focuses on darkening specific sections. This technique is often used to create a more natural and blended look, as well as to enhance the overall appearance of the hair.

The level system is used by colourists to analyze the lightness or darkness of a hair colour. This system categorizes hair colours into different levels, ranging from 1 (darkest black) to 10 (lightest blonde). It provides a standardized way for colourists to communicate and understand the desired shade or tone of hair colour. The level system is widely used in the hairdressing industry to ensure consistent and accurate results when dyeing or lightening hair.

Blue is the correct answer because it is a primary color that has the ability to bring depth or darkness to any other color. When blue is added to a color, it creates a darker or more intense shade of that color. This is because blue is a cool color that has a lower intensity compared to warm colors like red or yellow. Adding blue to a color can create shadows, give a sense of depth, or create a darker tone, making it the primary color that brings depth or darkness to any color.

The colouring technique that involves colouring some strands of hair lighter than the natural colour is highlighting. This technique is commonly used to add dimension and brightness to the hair by applying a lighter shade of color to certain sections of the hair. It creates a contrast between the natural hair color and the highlighted strands, resulting in a more vibrant and dynamic look.

They may dry out more quickly than other types of lighteners, but they do not run or drip. Most powder lighteners expand and spread out as processing continues.

Before performing a colouring service with an aniline derivative product, it is necessary to conduct a patch test. This is because aniline derivatives can cause allergic reactions or sensitivities in some individuals. The patch test involves applying a small amount of the product to a small area of the client's skin, usually behind the ear or on the inner arm, and observing for any adverse reactions such as redness, itching, or swelling. This test helps to ensure the safety and well-being of the client before proceeding with the colouring service.

Presoftening is the process of treating gray or resistant hair before applying color to allow for better penetration. This is done by using a pre-treatment product or technique that helps to open up the hair cuticle and make it more receptive to color. By presoftening the hair, the color can penetrate more evenly and effectively, resulting in better coverage and longer-lasting results.

During the process of decolourization, natural hair can go through as many as 10 stages. This means that the hair can undergo 10 different levels of lightening or bleaching. Each stage represents a different level of color removal, with the hair becoming progressively lighter as more stages are reached. This process is commonly used in hair dyeing or highlighting to achieve a desired lighter shade.

Temporary colours do not require a patch test because they do not penetrate the hair shaft and only coat the outer layer of the hair. These colours are typically washable and do not contain harsh chemicals that can cause allergic reactions. Patch tests are necessary for semipermanent, permanent, and demipermanent colours as they contain stronger chemicals that can potentially cause skin irritation or allergic reactions.

The standard volume of hydrogen peroxide used for achieving most results with permanent hair color is 20 volume. This volume is commonly used as it provides a moderate level of lift and color deposit without causing excessive damage to the hair. Higher volumes like 30 or 40 can be too harsh for some hair types and may result in over-processing or damage. 20 volume is a safer option that still allows for effective color penetration and coverage.

The hue or balance of color seen in the hair is referred to as "tone." Tone is a term used to describe the warmth or coolness of a color, and in the context of hair, it refers to the overall color that is achieved. It can range from warm tones like red, orange, and gold to cool tones like ash or silver. Tone plays a significant role in determining the overall appearance and character of the hair color.

Permanent haircolouring is considered the best for covering gray hair because it provides long-lasting and full coverage. Unlike demipermanent colours, which gradually fade over time, permanent haircolouring penetrates the hair shaft and permanently changes the hair's natural pigment. This makes it highly effective in covering gray hair and providing a more uniform and consistent color. Liquid haircolouring and protein colours may also provide good coverage, but permanent haircolouring is generally preferred for its longevity and ability to completely cover gray hair.

When two primary colors are mixed in equal parts, the resulting color is called a secondary color. Primary colors are the basic colors that cannot be created by mixing other colors together, while secondary colors are formed by combining two primary colors. Therefore, a color obtained by mixing equal parts of two primary colors is referred to as a secondary color.

When equal parts of a secondary color and its neighboring primary color are mixed, it creates a tertiary color. Tertiary colors are formed by combining a primary color with a secondary color. The primary colors are red, blue, and yellow, while the secondary colors are orange, green, and purple. Mixing equal parts of a secondary color (e.g., orange) and its neighboring primary color (e.g., red or yellow) will result in a tertiary color (e.g., red-orange or yellow-orange). Therefore, the correct answer is tertiary color.

Temporary colours are products that have a coating action on the hair and can be easily removed by shampooing. Unlike semipermanent colours, which gradually fade over time, temporary colours provide a temporary change in hair color that can be easily washed out. Ammonia colours and primary colours are not specifically mentioned in the context of the question and do not fit the description of products that are removed by shampooing.

Primary colors are fundamental or pure colors that cannot be achieved from a mixture of other colors. They are considered the building blocks of all other colors. Mixing primary colors together can create a wide range of secondary and tertiary colors, but primary colors themselves cannot be created by mixing other colors. Therefore, primary colors are the correct answer to the question.

Single-process hair coloring refers to a hair coloring technique where both lightening and depositing color are achieved in one application. This process involves using a permanent hair dye that lightens the natural hair color and deposits the desired color at the same time. It is a convenient and time-saving method compared to double-process hair coloring, which requires separate steps for lightening and coloring the hair. Deposit-only color and semi-permanent color do not involve the lightening process, making single-process hair coloring the correct answer.

Neutral base colours are often used to cover grey hair because they help to blend the grey strands with the natural hair color, creating a more cohesive and uniform look. Neutral base colors have equal parts of warm and cool tones, making them suitable for covering grey hair, which can have a mix of both warm and cool undertones. This helps to achieve a natural-looking result and provides good coverage for grey hair.

This hair is extremely porous and fragile. It may be close to its breaking point and should be cut!

The answer is every 4-12 weeks.

Cream lighteners have a thicker consistency compared to other lighteners, such as powder, oil, and paste. This thicker consistency allows for better control during scalp application, making it easier to apply the lightener exactly where it is needed. Cream lighteners are often preferred by hairstylists because they provide more precision and minimize the risk of accidental contact with the scalp.

Aniline derivatives are dye precursors that react with hydrogen peroxide to create larger and more stable dye molecules. These derivatives are commonly used in the production of permanent hair dyes, as they provide long-lasting color. The other options, base colors, primary colors, and demipermanent colors, do not specifically refer to dye precursors that react with hydrogen peroxide to form larger dye molecules.

Fine hair takes color faster and can look darker because the melanin granules are grouped more tightly. When the melanin granules are closely packed together, they can absorb and hold onto more color molecules, resulting in a darker appearance. This is why fine hair can appear to be darker when colored compared to thicker hair types.

The correct answer is temporary and semipermanent.

Permanent hair coloring products contain both a developer and an alkalizing ingredient. The developer helps to activate the color molecules in the hair dye, while the alkalizing ingredient helps to open the hair cuticle and allow the dye to penetrate the hair shaft. This combination of developer and alkalizing ingredient is necessary for the hair dye to effectively color the hair and provide long-lasting results.

Single-process permanent colouring applications refer to hair dyeing techniques that involve applying a permanent hair colour to the entire head of hair. In this process, the hair is typically pre-lightened or bleached before applying the permanent colour. Colour retouch applications, on the other hand, are a specific type of single-process permanent colouring application. They involve applying the permanent colour only to the new growth or roots of the hair, to cover up the regrowth and maintain the overall hair colour. This technique is commonly used to touch up the roots between full hair dyeing sessions, making it a suitable explanation for the given correct answer.